Jun 17, 2013 | Blog, Spring, Summer
There has been an explosion of community gardens in America, popping up behind churches, schools, in parks, next to city 
halls, and even on corporate campuses. As the name suggests, these are gardens that are shared by many users. Most often, the garden is a plot of land that is broken up into multiple gardens, each of which is maintained by an individual. In the United states, gardens are generally between 10’x10’ and 20’x20’.
There is a strong tradition of community gardens in urban areas, often involving vacant lots that have been cleared and turned into gardens. Many times, these are developed without official permission, and can be in danger of being removed if the land is sold or otherwise reclaimed. More and more, we are seeing these gardens in suburban areas, where public or private landowners offer unused land for gardens. Cities will often turn part of a park or the grounds of a city building (a school, for example) into a community garden. Likewise, companies with large campuses offer gardens to employees and the surrounding community. The community benefits from the gardens, while the owner benefits by no longer having to maintain the land.
The organization of community gardens varies widely, from anarchy to strict rules. Some gardens are impromptu and open to all on a first-come, first-served model with no leadership. Others have locked gates and years-long waiting lists for plots, especially in more affluent urban areas where land is at a premium. Most gardens are somewhere in-between, with formal (though almost always volunteer) leadership, and a sign-up process for plots. Many are run by churches or other non-profits who oversee the gardens and will charge a small fee for shared expenses, such as water, fencing, and administration, each year.
Community gardens offer many benefits, with a few drawbacks. For apartment-dwellers and those without room for gardens on their property, the advantages are obvious, but some choose a community garden even when they have room for one in their backyard. There is a sense of camaraderie in a community garden, and the expertise of other gardeners can be invaluable, especially to those just learning. A community garden can be an excellent way to get into gardening, since the plots are almost always well-established and are unlikely to require extensive conditioning for a successful growing season. Gardeners often share their tools, especially specialty tools that are rarely used, a benefit for beginners and veterans alike. It’s also a lot easier to trade some of an over-abundant zucchini crop for some of another gardener’s tomatoes when you’re gardening side-by-side.
This does not mean there are no disadvantages. Your plot will likely be open to the public and will not be under your direct control. This can lead to a “tragedy of the commons” where visitors or fellow gardeners do not respect your property, although this is a rare thing. It can also be a pain to have to haul all of your gardening supplies to the community garden, instead of just pulling them out of your garage or shed. Some less-established gardens will lack water, making gardeners dependent on rain or whatever water they can haul to the site or catch in a rain barrel. Most of these are minor concerns when compared to the benefits, and are generally easily overcome.
If you’re interested in participating in a community garden, odds are there’s one near you. The American Community Gardening Association (http://www.communitygarden.org) is an excellent resource and even has a community garden finder on its website (http://acga.localharvest.org/), which lists 200 community gardens in Ohio.
May 19, 2013 | Blog, Summer
Since ancient times, farmers have taken up the call to war, often fighting with the very tools they use to work the land. In World War I and especially World War II, young American men answered the call of duty in great numbers, along with healthy young men in every industry. The massive worldwide mobilization for war led to a food production crisis in the US and Europe.
Those left on the US home front were feeling squeezed on both sides. The most productive agricultural workers (young men) were heading off to war and needed to be fed thousands of miles away, while hungry civilians worked unprecedented hours to produce war materials. This led to fears of price spikes for agricultural goods that would make it more expensive for Uncle Sam to keep servicemen fed. This fear, combined with a general sense of the importance of thrift and self-reliance that supported the war effort, the Victory Garden took off in popularity.
Put simply, a Victory Garden was a way for civilians to help the war effort by producing their own vegetables to lessen the burden on the formal agricultural system and help it stay focused on feeding the troops. Americans were encouraged to plant vegetables in their gardens and yards, on abandoned lots, in parks, and even at the White House. Victory Gardens became a key focus of the home front propaganda machine, and were a challenge readily taken on by the American people. By some accounts, 40% of America’s vegetables were produced in Victory Gardens by 1944. This success was supported by the US Department of Agriculture, who produced volumes of educational materials on planting, growing, and canning food from the garden.
What does all of this have to do with today? Once again, we are seeing sharp rises in global food prices, and many of us are feeling uneasy about exactly where our food comes from. This has led to an explosion in the popularity of backyard vegetable gardens, and even in raising small animals like chickens. The “victory” in today’s Victory Garden may be a more personal one, but the underlying concept is the same: thrift, self-reliance, and productive use of the land.
Planting a Victory Garden is fun and can be as simple or complex as you like. An apartment dweller can grow hearty vegetables like tomatoes and peppers in a container on a patio. A small garden can also feature other popular vegetables like squash and beans. There’s nothing stopping someone with even a modest garden plot from undertaking a full traditional agricultural calendar, with multiple plantings and harvests, starting with leafy greens in the spring and ending with a fall harvest of pumpkins and root vegetables. You are only limited by your imagination and willingness to get your hands dirty.
Apr 28, 2013 | Blog, Spring
A lot of you spend the winter planning out your gardens, carefully plotting what you’ll plant in the spring, but odds are you 
haven’t give enough consideration to the soil you’re planting in. Unlike a blank canvas, soil is not a neutral medium for you to work with. If you have bad soil, almost no amount of effort will make your garden as lush as you may want.
Soil testing is an inexpensive, easy way to learn the good, the bad, and the ugly of your soil, so you know exactly what your garden or lawn needs to be its best, and now is the best time to get it tested. You can have your soil tested for nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, organic matter, acidity, and many different micronutrients, as well as the presence of any heavy metals.
Testing your soil will save you money by helping you choose exactly how much fertilizer your garden or lawn may need. It will also encourage proper plant nutrition by providing the appropriate fertilizer and lime recommendations. Testing also promotes environmental stewardship by preventing over-fertilization, which can lead to environmental problems such as algae blooms.
Testing generally costs around $25 with results in 2-4 weeks. Most labs will mail you a sample kit and detailed instructions once you contact them.
The process for soil testing is fairly simple. Once you’ve determined the area you want to sample (flower garden, vegetable garden, lawn, etc), you can use a soil probe, garden trowel, or shovel to collect samples. Samples should be taken from four to six inches deep, and should avoid areas where fertilizer has recently been applied, as this can contaminate the test results. Also, if you are sending multiple areas to get tested, each area’s samples should be kept separate.
Once you’ve collected your samples, make sure each area’s sample is thoroughly mixed. If your samples are damp, they should be air dried before they are mailed in to ensure that they are inert while being mailed and waiting for testing.
The Ohio Department of Natural Resources has a list of labs that will perform soil tests here: http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/tabid/9074/Default.aspx
Apr 17, 2013 | Blog
“Criticism, like rain, should be gentle enough to nourish a man’s growth without destroying his roots.”
~ Frank A. Clark
Sep 21, 2012 | Blog, Fall, Flowers
Just because the days are getting cooler doesn’t mean that it’s time to go back inside. The Fall is an excellent time to take care of some
lawn and garden projects. Not only is it more pleasant to work outside on a sunny autumn day than a sweltering summer one, many plants thrive in the cooler, wetter weather.
It’s been a harsh summer for lawns, with hot and very dry days. Luckily, if you are unhappy with your lawn, now is the best time to fix dead patches or even replace the whole thing. During the Fall, the ground is still warm enough for quick germination, and the young grass plants have the entire upcoming cool season to get established and thrive. Without the hot, long days of summer, your new grass won’t require watering as often, and may even require less top dressing for the seed. There are generally more rainy days in the Fall than summer, which means there will be plenty of water for your new grass without you lifting a finger.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant shrubs and perennials because these thrive in the cooler weather. Although the air is much cooler, it takes the soil significantly longer to chill. Even after the first snow, the ground doesn’t usually freeze for another month or two.
Another great reason to plant in the Fall is that it can save you some money. For those of you who like to bargain shop, many trees, shrubs and perennials are able to be purchased at a discounted rate during this time of year.
Planting in the fall gives the roots of trees, shrubs, and perennials plenty of time to become established before the next growing season. When you consider that a perennial planted in the spring has to adjust to its new soil and location while also blooming, producing new foliage, and a new root system, it almost seems obvious that the Fall is the best time to plant.
One special consideration of planting in the Fall is to ensure that you keep the soil around new plants moist at all times. This is because once the surface of the ground freezes, you won’t be able to get any more water to them.
Don’t let the cooler weather scare you away from your lawn and garden. Go out into the beautiful days knowing that your plants enjoy this weather as much as you do.
Jul 30, 2012 | Blog, Flowers, Mulch News, Spring, Summer
Every gardener desires healthy, flourishing plants, and the first step to achieving this goal is to attain good, rich soil. The soil texture 
needs to have the right amounts of sand, silt, clay, and organic material. And of course, the soil should be teeming with nutrients.
So, how does one acquire such a coveted, fertile piece of earth? Do you simply add compost? Is a man-made fertilizer necessary? What is the difference between those two remedies? Let’s take a look at what is necessary in order to prepare the best possible garden soil for your crops.
The best way to detect what your soil needs is to perform a soil test. A garden soil test will determine the nutrient levels, pH rating, and organic content, giving you a clear picture of what your soil needs.
Nutrient Levels: As you are aware, the nutrient levels are a key factor in achieving the very best soil. We want our soil to be full of nutrients. A soil test will show whether or not certain elements are low. If this is the case, it would be a good idea to incorporate a fertilizer that will replace the lacking elements.
pH Reading: The pH reading will reveal the acidity of your soil. Plants need a proper pH level in order to absorb nutrients. pH is measured on a scare of 0-14. If the pH reading is less than 7.0, the soil is considered acidic, and if the pH reading is more than 7.0, the soil is considered alkaline. The most fertile soil is slightly acidic. Depending on the level of your pH, your soil may need to be treated to increase or decrease the acidity, as extremely acidic or extremely alkaline soil can become infertile.
Organic Matter Levels: The levels of organic matter will indicate whether or not compost needs to be added. Compost can be purchased, or you can make it on your own using organic matter. Good organic matter includes vegetable peelings, sawdust, old lawn clippings, ground-up twigs, straw, paper, old leaves, and aged livestock manure.
What it all comes down to is discovering the needs of your particular soil. From there, you can determine what elements are necessary to achieving luscious, bountiful growth!
